Thanks for the tips guys. These crank pullets need a special tool to hold the pulley stationary for the crank bolt to be removed and reinstalled to the factory torque requirement. It only comes with the pencil and loop glow plug fittings for the Mercedes. I know I'm going to suffer the wrath for this but. When you're adding oil to the engine you don't have to worry about making a big mess due to the internal baffle of the valve cover. Pull the connector on the pump or the wire on the cutoff solenoid.
So why are you checking compression? I have had mine for years, and it has worked fine every time. If it is completely necessary to remove the head how difficult is that and would it be a good idea to go that far. If you feel a tight spot, most likely that's it. Well I didn't know how to do this test so I googled and youtubed the web and asked some local parts shops ie. One of the members here has a youtube vid where it looks like he uses air brake line or similar instead of the stock hose. Without that, your readings will be falsely low. Then do it again to double check.
Again if I'm remembering this correctly- don't forget what's putting the oil into the system in the first place- sounds like a new turbo needs to be on order from somewhere?? A leakdown test is another test to determine the condition of the engine. Note that the 1 spot was cleaned, the other spots were still dirty. Though some have had problems with them, they've always come right out for me. Easy-to-use compression tester is designed specifically for medium-duty diesel engines equipped with glow plugs. I have the Harbor Freight unit and it works fine for my needs. Your are correct I'm in the salt belt. I'm looking at a few places for a good and tough compression tester.
Warm up the engine to operating temperature. I was able to get the oil out thanks to this websites advice and was instructed not to run the car until I did a compression test. Just get the car to a guru and let them sort it out. Gauge has a push-button release valve and quick disconnect fittings on the hose end. This absorbs the energy of the engine cranking, and can affect the compression readings and unnecessarily drain the battery. The turbo doesn't spin very fast without the engine running so you might be ok.
The main thing in getting accurate readings is that the adapters displace exactly the same volume in the cylinder head as the parts you removed. . I placed a towel over it to see if there was anything and nothing came out. There are several fittings with the cores and can be quickly and easily swapped if that's the issue. At its most basic, a compression test will tell you whether or not an engine cylinder has good compression. Edit: Sorry for redundant post. Run it until the engine is fully warmed up and repeat the test.
Engine needs to run, then do test. We speak of the Schraeder valve in the tip of the adapter. A compression tester is an easy way to identify problem areas within your engine, so you can quickly diagnose the issue to get back on the road with little down time. You need a gauge intended for diesels with a gauge that reads well over 500 psi. Maybe the quality control is so bad they let some out without valves? So now im glad that there is good compression but I found something odd when I removed the adapter or the glowplug sized piece and found the tip was slightly cracked?! To put it in perspective, gasoline engines typically can have no more than 15 psi difference between cylinders on engine compression of about 125-180 psi, depending on the car.
These diesel engine compression testers are easy to use and provide accurate readings taking the guesswork out of the process. They have white plastic collars. If the readings are still unsatisfactory, replace the glow plugs and start the engine. Also keep in mind that two different compression testers may show different readings on the same engine. This, in most cases, damages the pulley which in turn prematurely wears out the belt. He could get lucky and it pass everything including the turbo and be fine.
I'm a Snap-On guy myself but that is because I did it professionally for 40 years. Introduction A compression test will tell you the compression of the engine. Depending on how hard the plugs are, I assume I may need to get them all out, then put them back in and run the engine if it takes to long got get them all loose and things cool off? Magnetic backing attaches this device inside a toolbox drawer and most metal surfaces. I assume pull all 4 glow plugs, somehow crank the engine over while disabling the fuel pump and measure one at a time down the line? Those seem very well, especially for an engine with 240,000 miles correct??? Ill post pictures but im confused about this. If it wedged between the piston and the head then it will just embed itself into the head and just sit there. The glow plug wiring harness is marked in red below, the green mark is for another writeup.